Nikko Toshogu Shrine

He encouraged trade with neighbouring countries like China and Korea, as well as European countries, in an attempt to maintain friendly and peaceful relations. He also implemented effective political, economical and cultural domestic policies. Although Japan closed her doors to the outside world from 1639-1853, the Central Government which Tokugawa had established lasted 260 years with 15 of his descendants inheriting the position of Grand General. It was a time of peace and stability rarely known in world history, during which a unique culture was created in Japan.

Construction of the Shine

Ieyasu Tokugawa died in 1616 at the age of 75. As he was dying, he wrote a will stating that he wished to be buried as a god. In Japan, it is believed that the soul of man lives forever. By establishing himself as a god he wished to continue protecting the peaceful Japan he had established. Hidetada, the Second Grand General of the dynasty, faithfully kept the will of his father and constructed the Toshogu Shrine in Nikko in 1617 with the Emperor’s permission. Twenty years later, Iemitu, the Third Grand General, whose respect for his grandfather was especially profound, reconstructed many of the shrine structures, spending 17month altogether. Thus, 30 new main structures were constructed with a man-power of 4.5 million in which first rate carpenters, artists, sculptors and masons of that time were employed. These structures are all carefully preserved today.

High Regard for The Toshogu Shrine

Five Storied Pagoda

Upon his death, Ieyasu Tokugawa was enshrined as a god to protect the country, and called “Shin Kun,” meaning “Grand General enshrined as a god.” He was enthusiastically respected not only by members of the Central Government but by the Imperial Household warlords and common people among others. The Emperor, admiring the achievements of Ieyasu Tokunaga, posthumously awarded him the highest degree of merit, the “Sho-Ichi-i,” meaning the Grand First Order. An Imperial Envoy was dispatched to every ceremony held at the Shrine since 1646, and this custom lasted for 222 years until 1867. The Ise shrine was the only other shrine in which an Imperial Envoy visited regularly during the Edo Era. The Toshogu Shrine was the spiritual center of the Central Government, and Iemitsu wished to be buried close to the shrine. This is the “Taiyu-in Temple.”

The Central Government did everything to maintain and preserve the Toshogu Shrine, and donated large portions of land. In addition, huge sums of money were spent on the upkeep of its architectural beauty. Each Grand General often visited the shine to pay homage and the procession sometimes included as many as 150, 000 subjects. Every warlord had a high regard for the Toshogu Shrine;the five-storied pagoda and the huge stone gate as well as stone lanterns numbering over 120 were all donated by these warlords as a sign of their loyalty to the Grand General. In particular, the cedar lane which extends 37 kilometers was donated by warlord Masatsuna Matsudaira, and has been designated an a National Treasure. These trees, called cryptomeria, are considered scientifically invaluable in view of the fact that they were man-planted and are a species of cedar peculiar to Japan. Special mention should also be made of the large bell donated by the King of Korea, and the tree lantern stands made of copper which were donated by the Dutch East India Company.

Incidentally, many of the warlords constructed a Toshogu Shrine in their own territory to enshrine the soul of the Grand General. This is the reason why there are Toshogu Shrine all over Japan, as many as 130 at present.

Architecture of Toshogu Shrine

It was during the Genna and Kanei Eras(1615-1643), a period in which the Central Government of Shogunate was securely established and peace and order were restored to Japan after many long years of war, bringing about a flamboyant culture that all the structures of the Toshogu Shrine were completed.

The architecture of Toshogu Shrine has a vivid and flamboyant beauty, reflecting the spiritual and cultural aspects of that time. Each structure is decorated with colorful sculptures, paintings, reliefs, metals and lacquer. As you proceed deeper into the shrine, the beauty of the structures is further enhanced. The theme color is white in such important structures as the Shin-den (Main sacred Hall), Kara-mon (Chinese style gate) and Yomei-mon Gate, while crimson, gold and black colors are used for the other structures which harmonize perfectly with the green of the 300-500 year-old cedar trees.

The interior of the shrine structures, ceilings and walls are decorated with paintings of the Kano School including those by famous artist Tan-yu Kanko, representing the Japanese art of that time. Their subjects include dragons, Chinese lions, flowers, birds, etc. Exquisitely sculptured spiritual animals, flora and fauna which decorate the buildings are gorgeous and powerful. Each of them well deserves artistic appreciation. Among them, the sleeping cat and the three monkeys are the best known. Pillars and corridors of the buildings are all painted in solid color, crimson or black, for example. The process of this special technique is complicated, with a view toward protecting wooden structures from corrosion, creating exquisite architectural beauty. Buildings are decorated with lacquered paintings and cloisonné metalware, all of which are invaluable to the history of Japanese art.

The 55 shrine strictures now existing are all designated as either National Treasures or Important Cultural Properties, of which the most important are the Shin-den (Main sacred Hall), the Kara-mon (Chinese style gate) and Yomei-mon Gate. Their architectural beauty is admired worldwide.

Three Monkeys

Sleeping Cat

Yomei-mon Gate

This is the most wall-known among the Toshogu Shrine structure, and is regarded as the symbol of Nikko. The Shogunate Government gave it the name “Yomei”, which literally means the “sun shines bright.” It is so beautiful that no one gets tired of looking at it from morning till night, which is why it is sometimes called “Higurashi-mon,” meaning all day-long gates. Sculptures attached to the structure are those figures expounded in Confucianism. They also descried the political and cultural ideas of the Shogunate Government of the Edo Era. The design of the gate is frequently seen on Japanese postage stamps.

Festivals of the shrine

Almost 120 festivals and rituals take place at the Shrine every year. Of these festivals, the largest is the Spring Grand Festival held on May 17th attended by descendants of the Tokugawa family and many other supporters. A colorful procession, with the Sacred Palanquin, emerges from the shrine in the evening of the same day, and continues the following day as well. This festival is held to commemorate the founding of the shrine. The procession is comprised of 1,200 priests and warriors, who guard the Sacred Palanquin and originated when the soul of Ieyasu Tokugawa was conveyed from the Kunosan Toshogu Shrine in Suruga (now Shizulka Prefecture), where his soul was temporarily enshrined, to Nikko upon its completion. It is a picturesque ceremony, an exact copy of the ancient procession. The Sacred Palanquin emerges from the Toshogu Shrine on May 17th and carries the soul to the Futarasan Shrine where an ancient ritual called “Yoinarisai” is held, and, on the following day, it proceeds to a camp near the Shinkyo (Divine Bridge). At this camp, a solemn ritual accompanied by ancient music and dance is held. “Yabisame” (archery on horseback) is also carried out in the costume of the Kamakura Era on the road facing the Treasure museum on May 17th from 1 p.m.

Old Nikko

The Nikko area is known as the “center of faith in the mountains,” and thrived as a sacred spot for both Shintoism and Buddhism. A priest named Shodo discovered the region in 783 where the Mt.Nantai soared in the sky of the Northern Kanto plains. Shodo enshrined a god at a soared spot on top of the mountain, and founded the main shrine in the San-nai area as well as the Shinhon-Ryuji Temple. This is the origin of the Futarasan Shrine and the Rin-noji Temple. Later, it was further developed, and Yoritomo Minamoto, Shogun at that time, had great respect for this area and donated paddy fields and land to the shrine and temple as a token of his faith. This paved the way for the sacred area to become the center of faith for Kanto warriors. In 1590, however, the warriors in this sacred area of Nikko stood against Hideyoshi Toyotomi who was fighting for national unity. As a result, all territories were confiscated and Nikko sank into poverty. Thirty years later, the Toshogu Shrine was founded and the Nikko area began to prosper once again.

Nikko National Park

The Nikko National Park was established in 1934 centering around Nikko and Oze, and in 1950, the spa resorts of Kinugawa and Nasu were added to the National Park, spreading over the four prefectures of Tochigi, Gunma, Niigata and Fukushima. This area in now known as one of the best sightseeing resorts in Japan. Its natural beauty is created by the scenic Nasu volcanic ranges, the alpine flora spotted in the marshland, ponds　and lakes with clear

water, rapids and sublime waterfalls. Dense cedar forests surrounding the Toshogu Shrine enhance the religious atmosphere of the area. The Nikko National Park is a comfortable resort with its historical, religious and cultural background. In addition, the road network in the area is well planned to facilitate sightseeing, and sightseers both Japanese and foreign total over 15 million a year.

Main Sanctuary

THE AUTOGRAPH PRECEPTS

Life is a journey carrying heavy load. Hasten not. Think that life is hard, and noting will be too little.

When desire springs in thy heat, recall thy days of poverty and privation.

Forbearance is the root of lasting peace and prosperity.

Look upon wrath as thy enemy.

If thou knowest only what it is to conquer, and knowest not what it is to be defeated, ill will befall thee.

Find fault with thyself, not with others.

Less is better than too much.